NY Metro ASHI News
August
2003
A Publication of the NY Metro Chapter of the American
Society of Home Inspectors
Edited by John Gerardi (gerardi@att.net)
Articles
published in the NY Metro ASHI News are the sole opinion of the author and we
publish these articles for educational purposes only and not to endorse or
state a position for or against the content of the article.
August Meeting
Tino’s
Steak House
Route 100, Hawthorne, NY
Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003, 6:00PM
Next Meeting's
Program No specific program scheduled. We
will hold a round table discussion on topics of interest.
Guests are welcome at all meetings.
Summary of June 2003 Education Session
By Colin Albert
Wood destroying insects inspection
Pat Sposato from Parkway Exterminating gave a very informative presentation about wood destroying insects inspection and displayed several traps, bait stations etc. Pat emphasized that, gone are the days where you just spray or put down some baits for the insects. Present day elimination of insects requires a systematic approach called Integrated Pest Management because the insects can get smart and avoid the “bait”. Sometimes a termite colony will sacrifice some members’ life in order to save the colony. Baits stations for rodents can have two different types of bait in the same station to provide for the fact that the rodents have different taste preference depending on the time of year.
Three ways to eliminate/minimize the house vulnerability to wood destroying insects are: 1). Structural (e.g. termite shield) prevent the termite access to the house. 2). Control entry points by weather stripping, closing doors etc. 3). Control conditions such as dampness/leak etc. Baiting system, you get a solid hit then you put the active ingredient. An active ingredient may be 1). Poison-kills the termite. 2). Growth regulator-prevents the termite from developing into adulthood. 3). Repellant-keeps the termite away from the house. Note that swarming is a reproductive cycle that occurs during Spring time but the termites are there all year. A satellite colony is one that lives above ground (e.g. in the attic). Only a certain number of active bait stations are allowed per house. If a house was treated before, it cannot be treated again unless there is active termite. Always remove shelter tubes after treatment to see if they will be rebuilt. If there is evidence of termites, assume that it is active unless there is proof of treatment. Wood boring insects such as carpenter ants leave voids in the wood and “saw dust” like particles. Termites do not.
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VIC'S
(AD)VICE COLUMN
BITS & PIECES
by Victor J. Faggella
CHIMNEYS: When I or one of my inspectors check a
masonry or stone chimney, very careful attention is paid to the top of the
chimney. When a coping is missing or improperly applied water can penetrate the
mortar joints, freeze and expand during, cold weather, and result in
deteriorated mortar joints and loose masonry units or stones. A properly
installed coping will allow water to drip down away from the chimney thus
eliminating this problem. See diagrams below.
The flashing at the base of the chimney is also carefully checked. A
roof leaks where it starts, ends or changes direction. On a block of brick chimney,
check to be sure that proper counter flashing exists to cover the step
flashing. The counter flashing should be set into the mortar joints. If the
step flashing has been itself installed so that it sets into mortar joints,
then counter flashing is not needed except for cosmetic reasons. See diagrams
below. On a stone and mortar chimney, due to the difficulty in setting flashing
into the mortar joints, flashing is often omitted and the area sealed with roof
mastic. This will require periodic reapplication to prevent leakage into the
house.
A cricket should also be installed on chimneys 24" or wider, on
the high side of a sloped roof. The purpose of the cricket is to channel the
flow of water around the chimney and to prevent the build-up of ice and snow
behind it. See diagrams below.
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The Environmental Corner
Submitted John Gerardi
The following information was extracted the National Safety Council Fact
Sheet Library web site: http:/
/www.nsc.org/library/facts
Formaldehyde
What Is It?
Formaldehyde is a colorless, strong-smelling gas. It is
widely used to manufacture building materials and numerous household products.
Its most significant use in homes is as an adhesive resin in pressed wood
products. There are two types of formaldehyde resins: urea formaldehyde (UF)
and phenol formaldehyde (PF). Products made of urea formaldehyde can release
formaldehyde gas; products made of phenol formaldehyde generally emit lower
levels of the gas.
Where Is It
Found?
Formaldehyde is an
important industrial chemical used to make other chemicals, building materials,
and household products. It is used in glues, wood products, preservatives,
permanent press fabrics, paper product coatings, and certain insulation
materials. Building products made with formaldehyde resins can “off-gas” (emit)
formaldehyde gas. These products include particle board used as sub-flooring or
shelving, fiberboard in cabinets and furniture, plywood wall panels, and
foamed-in-place urea-formaldehyde insulation. Some sources that previously
contained formaldehyde are either no longer used or have been reformulated to
contain less formaldehyde. Incomplete combustion, cigarette smoking, and
burning wood, kerosene, and natural gas also release formaldehyde.
What Are the
Health Effects?
Formaldehyde is
normally present at low levels, usually less than 0.06 ppm (parts per million),
in both outdoor and indoor air. When present in the air at levels at or above
0.1 ppm, acute health effects can occur including watery eyes; burning
sensations in the eyes, nose and throat; nausea; coughing; chest tightness;
wheezing; skin rashes; and other irritating effects. Formaldehyde affects
people in various ways. Some people are very sensitive to formaldehyde while
others may have no noticeable reaction at the same level of exposure. Sensitive
people can experience symptoms at levels below 0.1 ppm. The World Health
Organization recommends that exposure should not exceed 0.05 ppm. Colds, flu,
and allergies can cause symptoms similar to some of those produced by exposure
to formaldehyde. Formaldehyde has caused cancer in laboratory animals and may
cause cancer in humans; there is no known threshold level below which there is
no threat of cancer. The risk depends upon amount and duration of exposure.
What Are the Solutions?
Exposure to formaldehyde may be decreased by the following
measures:
Purchasing
pressed wood products labeled as low-emitting or products made from phenol
formaldehyde, such as oriented strand board or softwood plywood.
Increasing ventilation after bringing new sources
of formaldehyde into your home.
Using alternate products such as lumber,
metal, or solid wood furniture.
Avoiding the use of foamed-in-place
insulation containing formaldehyde, especially urea-formaldehyde foam
insulation.
Enclosing unfinished pressed-wood surfaces of
furniture, cabinets, or shelving with laminate or water-based sealant.
Washing durable-press fabrics before use.
Ensuring combustion sources are properly
adjusted.
Avoiding smoking indoors.
Maintaining moderate temperatures and low (30
to 50 percent) relative humidity levels.
How Can I Measure Formaldehyde Levels?
In cases where
accuracy of results is important, only trained professionals should measure
formaldehyde because of the difficulty of obtaining good data and interpreting
the results. Do-it-yourself formaldehyde measuring devices are available. The
results should be interpreted with caution, however, because weather
conditions, ventilation rates, and other factors can affect the results. Such
devices should be used according to the instructions.
National Safety Council
A Membership Dedicated to Protecting Life and Promoting Health
1121 Spring Lake Drive, Itasca, IL 60143-3201
Tel (630) 285-1121; Fax: (630) 285-1315
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The following article was printed in a recent issue of the
Journal News.
Difference between
home inspection agencies
By Victor J. Faggella
This is in response to an article in the June
14-15 real estate section, "Inspect inspectors before you hire," by
Noreen Seebacher. As an inspector with 35 years' experience and one of those
quoted in the article, I would like to commend Ms. Seebacher on writing an excellent
article on a very complicated subject.
However, I would like to offer clarification
on some of the items covered in the article.
Ms. Seebacher appears to put NACHI (National
Association of Certified Home Inspectors) on a par with ASHI (American Society
of Home Inspectors), which is not accurate. ASHI was the first and is now the
foremost and largest international professional organization for home
inspectors. It was founded in 1975, and its membership exceeds 8,000. NACHI is
a recently formed organization with limited membership. (The article stales
that there are 14 local members.) ASHI membership requires passing an
intensive and extensive two-part written exam, administered by an independent
national testing company. NACHI's exam is on-line (basically an open-book
test), which enables the inspector to look up answers while taking the test.
Unfortunately, an inspector does not have that "luxury" when performing
an on-site inspection.
Further, the article states "that an exceptionally
thorough inspection will check for environmental hazards in the
neighborhood." While a thorough inspector will look for such potential
hazards as overhead power lines, an environmental assessment is not and never
has been part of a home inspection. There are home inspectors who will perform separate environmental assessment inspections for a separate fee, but not
as part of a basic home inspection.
Finally, I would like to add the following question
to the excellent list Ms. Seebacher includes at the end of her article: Ask
how long the inspector has been performing inspections. Despite any degrees,
training, certifications, professional licenses or organizational affiliations,
there is no substitute for experience. This is a "hands on"
business. Despite my extended time doing home inspections, I still learn
something new on an almost daily basis.
The writer is president of Centurion Home
Inspections Inc. and past president, publicity chairman and publicity director
of New York Metro ASHI.
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Radiant
barriers
by Joan P. Crowe, AlA
Consumers in
warm U.S. climates use significant amounts of electricity to cool their houses.
And the price of electricity dramatically has increased because of higher costs
to produce it and short supply. In response to these problems, government
agencies are looking for ways to conserve energy by improving houses' energy
efficiency. One approach some states are advocating is the use of radiant
barriers.
Studies by the Florida Solar Energy Center
(FSEC) have shown cooling costs can be reduced if houses use radiant barriers.
However, NRCA has some concerns about the effects radiant barriers may have on
roof assemblies.
Heat transfer
Radiant
barriers work according to the principles of heat transfer. Heat transfer is
when heat moves from a warm area to a cold area. There are three modes of heat
transfer: conduction, convection and radiation.
Conduction occurs when two objects are in
contact and heat directly moves from one object to the other. Convection
happens when heat is transferred through a gas or liquid. Radiation occurs when
heat travels as an energy wave in a straight path; the energy wave heats any
object it contacts along its path.
Installation
There are many
radiant barrier products available to consumers. Following are the most
familiar products:
. Foil sheets (aluminized plastic films)-Foil sheets are laminated to a
backing material, such as polypropylene, kraft paper or polyethylene.
. Foil-faced roof sheathing
-Oriented strand board or plywood sheets are laminated with foil on one side.
The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) and Oak Ridge National Laboratory
(ORNL), Oak Ridge, Tenn., offer a fact sheet about radiant barriers on ORNI’s
Web site. The fact sheet contains consumer information and installation
recommendations. In general, the recommended placement for radiant barriers is
under a roof deck. If using foil sheets, the sheets should be draped between
rafters or trusses to create an air space. Foil sheets also can be placed on
top of attic floor insulation; however, dust and dirt can accumulate on them
and eventually impair their performance. In all cases, the reflective side
should face the attic space. The same applies to foil-faced roof sheathing; the
reflective side should be facing down toward the attic.
It also is important to note the Reflective
Insulation Manufacturers Association (RIMA) and ORNL advise that a radiant
barrier will be most effective if used in an attic that is properly ventilated
and has the appropriate amount of insulation.
Effects
on a roof
A concern when using
radiant barriers is possible detrimental effects on roofing materials. RIMA
conducted a study about the effects of a radiant barrier on roofing materials,
specifically asphalt shingles. The results showed the installation of a
radiant barrier increased shingle temperature by 2 degrees Fahrenheit (1 degree
Celsius) to 5 degrees Fahrenheit ( 3 degrees Celsius).
In 2002, RIMA issued these results in a technical bulletin, TB103, and stated the use of radiant barriers
should not reduce asphalt shingle life. The bulletin also contains a list of
roofing material manufacturers that claim their warranties will not be affected
by installing radiant barriers. The bulletin can be found in the technical
information section on RIMA's Web site.
NRCA's position
NRCA does not recommend the use of radiant
barriers in roof assemblies. The FSEC study showed the use of radiant barriers
increases the temperature of roofing materials and roof decks. Although a
several degree increase does not sound excessive, higher temperatures increase
the potential for premature aging of roofing materials.
Consumers who use radiant barriers should be
aware they may be reducing the service lives of their roof assemblies as a
trade-off for reduced energy bills.
Joan P. Crowe is an NRCA manager of technical
services.
To learn more about radiant barriers and for links to ORNL's, DOE's, RIMA's and
FSEC's Web sites, logon to http://www.professionalroofing.net.
Professional Roofing June 2003